 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
 |
Fitting fluorocarbon strings is much the same as fitting nylon
but as I use solid headstocks, the process is somewhat easier.
I have added some extra steps that improve stability.
Watch this video of the process
 |
My bridge design uses a curved hole for tying the string, so giving it a little kink before it goes in makes it easier. |
 |
After pushing the string through, I put the end over a flame to make a little ball. This stops the string from scratching the top, makes it easier to handle and is a final safeguard from slipping. In the video I show how to melt a curve in the string which makes it easier to fit and prevents slipping. |
 |
I use the standard mothod of twisting the remaining string under several times. The number of times needed depends on the gauge and ranges from 4 to just one.
|
 |
You will need a couple of inches sticking through the roller to do the knot. |
 |
Make the knot on the inside of the roller. don't leave any slack on the string as it will stretch going on. I learned this knot from a classical maker who said it goes back to early gut strings. |
 |
A close up of the knot. It doesn't matter if it goes over-under or under-over. |
 |
Pull the knot tight and hold it in this position while you wind it and create a little tension. |
 |
Now the tension should hold the knot in place and you can continue winding, but hold the string down with your thumb so that the string winds on from the bottom and doesn't roll over itself. |
 |
The mandolin G string is a classical guitar A string. Fit the string to the first peg and cut it fairly short. |
 |
The remainder should be just enough to do the second G string as it doesn't need a knot like the others. Just hooking it under the string being wound on is enough to hold it. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|